You'll run into "Buff haters" all over the place. One claim you see repeated, over and over, is that Alien Bees have more color variation than other brands of lights. That's true, but meaningless. All conventional "variable voltage" monolights which is, essentially, every monolight on the market except Paul Buff "Einstein" and Photogenic "Solair" share one characteristic. The color temperature drops about 80K for every stop you reduce power.
I can't name another variable voltage monolight with that large a control range. So, they only drop K. Big whoop. If you limit the Paul Buff lights to the smaller control range of the Elinchroms, they perform the same way. We are using SB's and SB's to shoot artworks at a museum. We have been doing this for years with no issues, but now a lender to an exhibition we are shooting is raising a question about excessive light exposure from the flashes.
We have always been told that the short duration of the flash limits the exposure to quite low levels. In a post above someone estimates the output of an SB at 75 watt-seconds. Is that right? Also, how does one factor in the distance from the object combined with the area of the object, assuming the flash zoom is set to the widest angle? It would seem that even with 8 flash units there is very little total light exposure.
I made a dumb error in my assumptions for the calculation I tried above. The 75 watt-seconds already includes the factor of the duration of the flash. Therefore I now think is should be:.
This assumes the object is receiving all of the light. To be very conservative, let's say half of the light. This would be the equivalent of a 60 watt bulb for 5 seconds. No, it is rated at 76WS of energy at t. Unless Speedlights are rated at T. It is a mute point for your scenario, because Joules WS is the energy dumped into the flash tube, it is not a true measurement of what your object being photographed will see.
Yes, little light exposure, but very a very intense one. That is what they are concerned about. Inverse-square law describes the light fall-off of any light source. Is it worth the hefty price tag? We take a look at the Cine, the high-end model in this series. The Nikon Z9 is the company's first camera to feature a stacked CMOS sensor, which brings a raft of new features, including blazing speed and autofocus performance to the Z lineup.
Click through for our detailed first impressions of Nikon's latest professional ILC. The Sony a7 IV is the fourth generation of the company's core a7 full-frame mirrorless camera model, and it's the most advanced yet.
Click through for an in-depth look at Sony's latest full-frame mirrorless ILC. Nik Silver Efex Pro 3, one of the standout components of Nik Collection 4, is a black-and-white conversion tool that goes far further than the grayscale or black-and-white tools built into all-in-one photo apps.
For some users, this app alone might be worth the cost of the whole collection — find out for yourself in our review. The Nikon Z mm F2. Get all the details in our full review. These capable cameras should be solid and well-built, have both speed and focus for capturing fast action and offer professional-level image quality. Although a lot of people only upload images to Instagram from their smartphones, the app is much more than just a mobile photography platform.
In this guide we've chosen a selection of cameras that make it easy to shoot compelling lifestyle images, ideal for sharing on social media. If you're looking for the perfect drone for yourself, or to gift someone special, we've gone through all of the options and selected our favorites.
We looked at cameras with selfie-friendly screens, wide-angle lenses, microphone inputs and great video quality, and selected the best. Submit a News Tip! Reading mode: Light Dark. Group Since May 6, Save Cancel Drag to set position! Overview Discussions Photos Members Map. I'm trying to figure out what to buy as my second strobe, and was hoping to get a better sense of the relative power output of these three flashes. Guide numbers totally baffle me comparing fractions with different denominators?
Publish Preview. You'd probably be better off comparing GN to GN at similar coverage angles. Alien Bees, at least, provides GN for their strobes. That's why I compared them to the SBs 24mm and 35mm.
Post Reply Preview. Harm Tido 13 years ago. Using Watt seconds or Joules is a good way to compare studio strobes, because all of those are bare-bulb. Using Ws is a very useless way to compare hotshoe flashes, because they all incorporate their own reflectors and different zoomsettings: Eventough the zoom setting and light intensity change, the light output of the tube will be the same in Ws.
SB and are around 60 Ws tube output , the SB will be a bit less. I don't know how much less, and I also don't know what to do with these numbers. And neither do you, eventhough you might think you do. Unless you know all reflector and diffusor losses, and understand Steradians.
Very portable, and loaded with sophisticated features, owning a speedlight is a must. A simple choice. Not an obvious translation between the two of them.
The Profoto B1 flash affiliate is quite powerful, offering Ws as a maximum. It also features TTL capability, and can be wirelessly controlled. All this gives the B1 a flexibility approaching that of speedlights. The question then inevitably comes up just how much stronger the Profoto B1 is than a speedlight.
Stated in another way: how many speedlights would you have to gang up to match Ws of studio light output? I had a model, Melanie, in the studio to do a series of test photos. I had both flashes at 10 ft away from Melanie, who stood a few feet from the studio wall.
The speedlight offered a surprisingly small aperture value for that central spot. Yet we can clearly see just how wide the Profoto D1 throws its light. So there is obviously a lot more light coming from the Profoto head than just what would give correct exposure for a small central area. Notice that the shadow behind Melanie is less pronounced with the Profoto D1 head, because of the amount of light being bounced around the place.
Check this tutorial on how to use the guide number of your flash. This light modifier is massive and would spread the light quite widely. I added the inset photo to show how wide the light from either flash spreads into the umbrella. Now we get a better sense of the actual output of the respective flashes. The Ws juice from the Profoto D1 gave us nearly 3 stops more output when used like this. Actually, it appears closer to 2.
This might seem like an unequal comparison, but a speedlight will most likely always be your best option for portable lighting. Small and powerful. A top-of-the-line speedlight is very sophisticated, with TTL capability and high-speed flash sync. Every photographer should own a few. And this is where the Profoto B1 battery powered flash affiliate shines. True wireless control and with TTL capability, it becomes very easy to use and set up on location.
This also takes us in an interesting direction. It is quite often mentioned that powerful portable lights such as the Profoto B1 are quite expensive.
But if you break it down into a comparable number of speedlights and wireless transmitters and possibly battery packs , then the all-speedlight option becomes quite expensive as well. An interesting consideration. I was surprised at how closely the speedlight matched the B1…. The SB has previous battled with overhearing issues when it strobes continuously. These little portable speedlights do punch out a lot of light in the shortest amount of time.
So when you put the speedlights through heavy use, the unit itself plus the batteries can get to some dangerously hot temperate before it starts to meltdown. To avoid this meltdown, the new SB has a new thermal cut-out feature which now automatically delays the recycling time instead of ceasing operation.
0コメント